![Allen Edwards](/img/default-banner.jpg)
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Allen Edwards
United States
Приєднався 26 жов 2006
Unassisted mast climbing with a GriGri. No voiceover.
This was the first version of this video I posted. There was a copyright dispute and it was removed for many months. That is resolved so I made it visible again. I do think the version with voiceover is more informative. It is ua-cam.com/video/tu0CcwPHgU0/v-deo.htmlsi=uqQK8HbkP2A4221A
The equipment I use now is on yet another video
ua-cam.com/video/89w4pLANLvo/v-deo.htmlsi=H8vufo5KG_P6R6HG
I know there are links to this video which is why I have reinstated it.
For more information please visit my website
L-36.com
The equipment I use now is on yet another video
ua-cam.com/video/89w4pLANLvo/v-deo.htmlsi=H8vufo5KG_P6R6HG
I know there are links to this video which is why I have reinstated it.
For more information please visit my website
L-36.com
Переглядів: 471
Відео
WinchHandleRecovery
Переглядів 365Рік тому
This is a follow up to the August 15, 2018 video showing Papoose recovering an overboard winch handle. This is unedited showing the drop (0:04) into the video) and the recovery (1:00). We were tacking up wind and ended up on the opposite tack after the recovery, which was fine.
Unassisted Mast Climbing using a GriGri
Переглядів 1,5 тис.2 роки тому
Unassisted Mast Climbing using a GriGri
WiFI distributed instruments with full Race Box corrections on a 60 year old wood boat?
Переглядів 4594 роки тому
Papoose is a 60 year old Lapworth 36 with a full set of instruments feeding custom instrument readouts with an onboard WiFi network. Boat speed readout noise was reduced and response time increased (neat trick). Wind nonlinearity is corrected. Problems with depth were solved.
FreeFlyintJibTakedown
Переглядів 4744 роки тому
This is the takedown of our 155 Stormlite free flying jib when the wind built to about 15 knots. The sail is designed for 10 knots. We were sailing on a beat. This is not a VMG type sail, it is a jib.
Five races, five first place finishes.
Переглядів 2694 роки тому
Papoose is a classic wood Lapworth-36 that races against more modern mostly 40 foot boats. In this race we were the second boat to finish and corrected over the first boat to win by 5 minutes. I show our OCS start, the recovery, how we kept up with the 40 footers downwind, avoiding being between two boats on the leeward rounding, and our finish.
How could my L 36 keep up with all these 41 foot boats
Переглядів 4724 роки тому
Fourth race of the third series saw L-36 Papoose with 3 first place finishes and needing a third to clinch the series but we won instead. There are several lessons learned some good things and some not so good. I try and explain what happened with a voice over.
Race to 6
Переглядів 1215 років тому
We are not first boat to finish often given we have the largest handicap in our fleet but we did this day. The reason is that the fastest boat stopped just before the finish line and we just sailed right by them. Many people asked how we did it and I will leave it to you the viewer to answer that question. My answer is excellent crew work along with not doing anything to make us stop.
Not Our Best Gibe
Переглядів 2635 років тому
Too focused on getting around the mark and not enough on completing the gibe. Even the camera pointed higher after the gibe. I feel lucky I didn't damage the boat beyond a few more cracks in the hull. When I had the wood mast, I was super careful. I need to get back some of that cautious instinct.
No Wind, Lots of Wind
Переглядів 2175 років тому
Last race of first series 2019. Wind was a low of 1.5 knots and as high as 21 knots.
Ultimate Unassisted Mast Climbing
Переглядів 32 тис.5 років тому
This video goes pretty fast. For more information see L-36.com/UltimateMastClimbing.php This is the third method I have shared and by far the best for climbing the mast of a sailboat. I am calling it the ultimate method. I hope you enjoy it. It is what I will use now.
2019 Race 1
Переглядів 1515 років тому
First race of the 2019 season. We got a poor start but made it up and were second boat around the first mark. Considering all the boats owe us time that wasn't bad. We took first by just under 4 minutes corrected (2nd boat to finish).
Black Diamond Bosun's Chair
Переглядів 7 тис.5 років тому
Black Diamond Bosun's Chair Review. This is from the perspective of a sailor who uses a Bosun's chair to climb a mast. The Tour Climbing harness, which is a good harness to use with a bosun's chair when climbing a mast can be see here amzn.to/2K6na89
Knots in Dyneema
Переглядів 48 тис.5 років тому
Most knots slip in Dyneema but these four are a good choice if you need to tie a knot in Dyneema rather than splice it, which is preferred.
Mechanical Advantage Mast Climbing and GriGir
Переглядів 1,4 тис.5 років тому
Mechanical Advantage Mast Climbing and GriGir
Unassisted Mast Climbing using an GriGri with voice over.
Переглядів 17 тис.5 років тому
Unassisted Mast Climbing using an GriGri with voice over.
downwind leg with spinnaker with boat speed superimposed
Переглядів 3455 років тому
downwind leg with spinnaker with boat speed superimposed
The longer the tail of the bowline doesn't mean its safer. If the coller on the bowline gets too big somehow the nipping loop can capsize turning into a slip knot, the long tail wont help it will just slip out
I think the bigger risk with a bowline is for people who do not know how to tie one and tie it wrong. I tried just now to tie one very lose and made it collapse. It slipped but slipped toward the shackle just making it tighter against the shackle. It did not slip toward the tail. I was unable to make it slip as you are describing. Rock climbers don't necessarily know how to tie a bowling so a figure of eight is safer. If you are climbing a sailboat mast, you are very likely to know how to tie a bowline. I started mast climbing using a figure of eight but it is just so hard to untie. But if you are uncomfortable with a bowline, use a figure of eight.
Thank you! Looking into splicing around a block and found your video still deciding
Always better to splice than use a knot in Dyneema if you can. These are great when a splice won't work or when you need to do something quickly. Not sure what you are trying to do so I can't really make a meaningful comment.
Thank you for a simple well explained video. I carry some spectra line in case a lifeline were to break and knowing how to tie a secure knot for that situation is really important and I had not thought it out properly
I am pleased you find it helpful. Thank you.
better to avoid even the eye of the shackle; tie above
I learnt this method from a mexican fisherman, sure made me faster.
I have met a few others who use it but not many.
Thank you sooo much!
I am glad you like it.
Clever and well thought out.
Thank you.
I added a section on the writeup not long ago to give more of the big picture. L-36.com/UltimateMastClimbing.php . Check it out. Let me know if that helps.
This is so fantastic, but so complicated! I would need guidance.
This is a long time ago, but that other boat had a history of hitting other boats including mine. I asked the skipper after the race and asked him what his plan was. He said he would have either ducked us or tacked.
Thank you. This is the easiest way to tie a bowline.
I appreciate the comment.
Nice man, I always liked the convenient change-over of the ascender - grigri - pulley system.
Hayden has to show us How To climb. I don't get this.
I like this one much better. Check it out: ua-cam.com/video/tu0CcwPHgU0/v-deo.htmlsi=lfpw_MgmAP33E77C Allen
@@L-36 thanks
I am wondering about rigging lifelines by puting allthread in the holes with nuts & puting clove hitches around the stansions . Will that work ?
Thanks for a great video. Could a similar setup be used with a single halyard? I am wondering how or if the ATC could be attached at top of mast if using one line which would be under constant load.
@@CM-ef2fl Personally, I would just climb up and climb down using some form of dual ascenders. I have also used a jib halyard to climb and the main halyard as my safety or visa versa. Just swing the safety around the spreader. Then climb up and reverse the procedure to climb down.
Does it have a rigid base?
Allen - what brand of bosun's chair are you using/recommend? Thanks again for the great video.
Well, I use a modified old ATN chair I had left over when the ATN system almost killed me and I started this quest for a better and safer way to get up my mast. Imagine my surprise when I was way up on my mast and noticed the shackle had worked itself lose and I was just being held up by luck. I did look for a commercial chair that I could recommend. The Black Diamond was completely unacceptable and is not even rated as life supporting. I made a video on it you can look at. I then bought a Crewlift 40 bosun chair and I like it a lot. However, I have not gotten around to trying it mostly because it is bigger than the one I am using and won't fit in the bag I use to store it. It seems like a much better chair and can go closer to the top because of the way it clips on. Here is an affiliate link to an Amazon page. I get a small commission if you click the link and buy anything. www.amazon.com/Crewsaver-Boating-Sailing-Crewlift-Bosuns/dp/B00UNALRUO/ref=sr_1_8?crid=1QSQ7SG4HKOOZ&keywords=bosun+chair&qid=1702997546&sprefix=bosun+chair%252Caps%252C141&sr=8-8&ufe=app_do%253Aamzn1.fos.d977788f-1483-4f76-90a3-786e4cdc8f10&_encoding=UTF8&tag=l36com-20&linkCode=ur2&linkId=43797345f0b8c6b3fcfb2b686f8099d2&camp=1789&creative=9325
Here's what I don't understand ... Allen uses two halyards. One of the halyards is tied off to his red climbing line using a bowline connected to the bosun's chair; the other to his waist harness. What is the point of tieing off the red climbing line to a halyard when one could just use the halyard by itself? That halyard is still under tension and has potential to break, regardless of the added red climbing line. Why not just use the two halyards as is? Note: I understand he is using two halyards. I just don't understand the point of the red climbing line tied to one of the halyards.
Good information but tied the knots way too fast to follow.
Maybe watch it again...
I would definitely call myself a 'lazy rigger'... I don't go up unless I've got someone on the winch. The Milwaukee Hole Hawg was a good investment, that way any winch becomes a powered winch. For Masthead work, I just have a couple slings with multiple steps sewn in but almost never have to use them. I'm almost always using one of the main halyards from the masthead sheave, so if my harness gets right to the sheave I am practically at waist height there so I can still see and work on the top.
Thanks for this. Your original videos were what inspired me to use this system myself. I also added a small aider ladder off the ascender so I can comfortably stand way above my grigri without switching over the ascender. Redundancy is king though! It also helps to practice descending off a munter hitch in case the grigri falls. I practiced a number of times first then went up the mast. It paid for itself the second time I went up and by now I have saved hundreds! Its very tiring though (Yes, I'm using my legs!), and that's not something you see on any video.
I had my son watch this very informative sir
Thank you.
@@L-36 I do some moonlighting tree service work one of the most vital knots to learn
@@fullsenderman8291 I have seen tree workers tie bowlines with impressive speed.
@L-36 yes sir
This is great! But it really use up a lot of the rope length!
It probably uses less line that a splice. I would recommend a splice over this but if you need a knot that won't slip, here it is.
This is way more complex than a simple grigri, ascender and pulley combo imo
The GriGri method is pretty easy but has a few issues. The main thing I don't like is all the re-rigging at the top. Half the time I could go to the top and find that I had rigged it wrong at the bottom which made it difficult to get it re-rigged correctly. You also have to re-rig if you want to get all the way to the top of the mast. Without re-rigging it can be downright terrifying going down. All the re-rigging makes it much more complicated. I used it for a couple of years but quit. This method is pretty easy if you leave the gear partially rigged when it is put away.
@@L-36 can I ask also….why run a separate line up connected to the halyard….why not just use the halyard itself? One less knot to worry about
@@UpstateDS I started using climbing line for the GriGri. It is very picky about the line. Also, my halyards are Amsteel so I need to either use some yacht braid or climbing line. Climbing line also has some give in case something does go wrong. The cover is much stronger on climbing line. I once stripped the cover off a line in a rope clutch. It is just another layer of safety. You just need to know how to tie a bowline and I think every sailor does.
@@L-36 that's what I thought was the reason. Thanks for the info!
Landed here just after receiving my "bosun's chair". I'll also use it in conjunction with my harness
No figure eight knot? It would hold and wont untie, although retain only 40% of rope strenght, but so probanly all other knots.
It has been too long since I did all the testing on these knots but I am pretty sure we tested that and it slipped. Have you tested it? A lot of good knots just slip out at like 20% of line strength. That isn't nothing as this line is very strong but you really need to be careful using knots that have not been proven not to slip with Dyneema.
I should have mentioned that this happened during a race which we still won.
tried a waterbowline with the known yosemite finish which worked out well on a 3mm dyneema. funny that you are modify the waterbowline as well 👍 thanks!
Thank you for sharing this! I've been a rock climber many years and knew I could apply this to climbing a mast on my boat. The pulley is a nice extra touch there giving a bit of a mechanical advantage. Well thought out.
Thank you for your comment. As an experienced rock climber you would have the knowledge of the equipment required to make this a reasonable system to use. Best of luck. I just added the link to the article in the description and below. L-36.com/more_mast_climbing.php.
Many thanks Allen for this video. I have no -absolutly no- experience with climbing and climbing gear so it took me quite a while and many views of the video along with the explanation on your website to understand your concept. But now that's done. I have one question: I find it rather hard (better said very expensive) to get the Sterling Rope Prussik Loop here in Germany. I have however lots of Dyneema 6 mm on my boat which I use for soft shackels. Would you think this would work as Prussik Loop as well? The Dyneema has a pretty slippery surface.
Before using the Sterling Prussik loop I just used a home made loop using a 7mm line from out local climbing store (REI). They even tied it for me. You can see how here www.animatedknots.com/prusik-knot. I would not use Dyneema but it might be fine. The problem is the stuff melts at a low temperature and if it get to that temperature it fails catastrophically and instantly. You would get no warning.
Nice recovery. No shouting, just straight into the maneuver.
I'd have twisted off the main a bit. And maybe moved the jib lead forward as well.
Looks like the main is over trimmed as well. But the take down went well 🙂
burn the soft part at the end to melt it on
The idea of leaving a little line sticking out the diamond knot is so that if the knot tightens at all and tries to pull the ends in, there are ends there and the knot won't fail.
Great video, very informative and to the point. I tried this after watching another video last sunday. Other than getting bruises on legs and a huge one on my arm I managed it. My concern was too many lines that interrupted with my Gri-gri, to the point it lifted up the lever as I was ascending. I like the use of your pulley giving that 1:3 advantage but after reading some comments in the other video, is this not dangerous? The line going out of the Gri gri shouldn't it be facing downwards to create a lock? Taking it up to the pulley makes it dangerous since the Gri gri is not engaged. Would like your comments on this. PS I had one foot loop and as I am not a climber it became more difficult to stand after a while, so will go and get a second foot loop. Again thanks for a great video.
I can't say I understand your questions fully. I can't imagine how the line to the pully would interact with the handle unless you strung it wrong. The handle goes off to the left and the pully is on the right. The GriGri should stay in the closed position all the way up. But that said, this method is just too complicated and too easy to string something wrong which mostly you don't find out until you are at the top. I no longer like it and don't use it. I use the one I call the Ultimate Mast Climbing method linked in the comments. Just click "More" above or go to L-36.com and look under articles. Here is the link l-36.com/UltimateMastClimbing.php. That method is also complicated but I have not found it prone to rigging incorrectly. I keep major parts rigged in my storage bag to remind me how it all goes together and even after a couple of years I just rigged it and climbed my mast a couple of months ago without needing to read or watch anything.
The sliding knot rolling hitch is just a taut line hitch, no?
Same but proper name is rolling hitch per ABOK
It looks like youtube automatically divided this up into chapters and added them to the description section. But the AI seems to have used the wrong names. "Modified Water Balloon," "Carrot Knot", and "Yester Stopper." Maybe you might want to delete that or fix it. It also missed the Estar Knot (bend).
Thank you ❤️❤️❤️👍👍👍⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️😊😊😊
Thanks for the demonstration. I use a similar setup with a single foot loop but I like your double foot loop setup better. I'll rig that up with some webbing and give it a try.
It's rappel, not reppel, and I'd not call this the ultimate at all. I can't for the life of me work out why you use the prusik to descend instead of the belay device?
Thank you for the correction. I can hardly spell my own name. I use the ATC for descending. The prussic just acts as an auto break on the ATC. I find this much preferable to going down using a GriGri, which is very difficult to control by comparison. I have used the GriGri for mast climbing many times and cannot recommend it. This method is much better. Also, the prussic is already on the line as the safety so no re-rigging at the top is not necessary except installing the ATC and releasing the roll-n-lock. Everything can be done with hardware secured so that there is no danger of dropping it on the deck. These are all factors that make this the ultimate method for me. If you have a better method that you have actually used please share.
@@L-36 I agree the GriGri has it's place, but I like simplicity. I even tried a Tibloc instead of the Prusik but the Tibloc shredded the rope and sometimes was very difficult to undo. I always go back to the same method: Prusik for safety line, twin ascenders for going up, and a figure 8 belay for abseiling back down. Simple, inexpensive, historically proven and safe. I might make a video one time of the setup, and show how it works.
@@mymobile5014 If you follow my website, you know I tried many methods for unassisted mast climbing. I started with twin ascenders and the prusik for the safety line. I would go down with the ascenders which was fine for mast painting (sand going up, paint going down) but not as good now that I have an aluminum mast that does not need painting. In general, I found ascenders that have teeth, like used in mountain climbing where they need to work on wet frozen rope, to be less than ideal on a boat. I used a micro-cender but had to up the size of the spring wire and ultimately it was taken off the market as even with stiffer wire, it would tend to slip. The Ropeman 1 is ideal. It has lots of grip and no teath. The rollinlock is much easier to use than an ascender because you can just pull on the rope instead of messing with the lower ascender. And of course, I tried using a GriGri but it is just too easy to rig it wrong at the bottom which gives issues at the top and the way I re-rig it at the top generates a lot of "feedback". But I found the rerigging necessary for a safe descent. The ATC works great, is easy to rig, and always tied in so cannot hit the deck and leave me stranded. I have a figure 8 device but prefer the ATC for reasons mentioned. I also like the idea that if I let go, I stop even if the main line were to fail because the prusik will lock the ATC. Anyway, this is why I call it the ultimate but that is only within the context of what I have tried but that is a lot.
@@L-36 That was the problem with the Tibloc, the teeth were very aggressive. The teeth on my ascenders are more like ribs which jam, a bit like the jammer on a mainsheet? I prefer the figure 8 which also ties on, simply because I find them quicker and easier to set up and use than an atc. The main difference though is I climb on 3 ropes, one sling to each ascender to a rope each, both attached to the harness. The Prusik is on a 3rd rope. I love the redundancy so I can go up and do anything I like knowing that if the worst came to the worst I couldn't really have done more. Except dismast and do it on the hard haha
Excellent video and website, thanks. I am going to model your system but I need to be able to work on my spreader ends. If I leave the climbing static ropes fairly slack to allow me to swing out will the system still be manageable? I don't need to do this a lot so perhaps the only way is to have a helper on deck to ease me out. If I do this in a calm marina would it work solo with slack static ropes?
You have to leave the tails slack. It helps to have them weighted as in coil up the excess line but the system will not work if you tie the ends down. Perfect for checking the spreaders.
@@L-36 Thanks Allen. I will have to study the setup again as I thought at 1:08 you tightened the tails but I see at 2:14 they are slack.
@@L-36 Thank you 👍
For more information visit L-36.com
Funny, now there is this magic material "Dyneema", but none of the conventional knots work anymore 😞Nice try my friend to add friction by adding more and more loops, but doesn't it defeat the purpose of sailing knots? Unless you can quickly tie and untie them, how can they be useful? I am trying the compromise using covered Dyneema, the outer shell is conventional and should follow the respective laws of friction. but here a question: I am preparing my dyneema tramp for my trimaran. Do you have any recommendations about whipping a thin dyneema line attaching the perimeter line to the net? Greetings Sam
You untie these knots with a knife. If you want to make something removable in Dyneema, use some variation of a soft shackle. There are many for many applications on L-36.com. I recommend using a splice but there are times and situations when you need a knot and that is what these are for. You don't have enough details for my understanding for me to answer your question. I sometimes just use 20 half hitches around a line to secure low force applications like you might be talking about. You can untie thoes.
@@L-36 wow, that is a quick reply indeed, thank you. I will look around first, as I can't paste pictures here it is a bit difficult to describe. I might come back later. Greetings
@@SamuelLanghorn You can upload a picture to Google Photo and post a link here. Like this. photos.app.goo.gl/ZtJtBrX2AyVZPSM37
@@L-36 Hi Allen, I tried, but somehow only saw you blue dyneema loop there, I left a message. Let's switch to email.
@@SamuelLanghorn I was just demonstrating how to upload a picture. Nothing special about the one I linked. You can contact me off my website.
The carrot knot @3:47 is the knot i was looking for, thanks
'Carrick'?
I’m a rock climber surprised how much we have in common with sailors, I’d say the first rock climbers (to use protection) were sailors
Sailors, rock climbers, and arborist all are very close to their ropes.
thx, just did the same with 1.6mm dyneema and a paperclip
Thank you for sharing
You are welcome. I am glad you enjoyed it.
Cool. Thanks !!!!
You are welcome. Glad you enjoyed it.
These are great and simple in theory, but for the life of me can't actually remember any but the bowline when I need one.
Just watch the video every time before you go to your boat ;-)